Paint brushing problems, many small series to help

Three-point paint is applied in seven points. This is a very clear concept in the coatings industry. Even if the paint is good, there must be professional construction to carry out some post-work. A good painter can add a finishing touch to the home decoration. On the contrary, some small mistakes in the painting project will bring many troubles to the later decoration. When it comes to troubles, the right medicine is the key.

Paint peeling off:

It may be because the surface is too smooth. If the original paint is lacquered or powdery (with an untreated paste coating), the new paint will not stick to the surface. Or it may be wood decay or metal rust spots, but also peeling off due to poor paint quality. A small area of ​​paint peeling off, first sanded with fine sandpaper, then put on putty, brush the primer, and then repaint. Large areas of peeling must be scraped off and repainted.

Paint hooligans:

If the paint is too thick at a time, it will cause runny. If the paint is not dry, brush it with a brush. If the paint has begun to dry, wait until it is dry. Smooth the surface with fine sandpaper, clean the surface, wipe it with a damp cloth, and then re-apply. The outer layer paint, be careful not to brush too thick.

Paint film wrinkles:

Usually caused by brushing the second time after the first time the paint is not dry. At this time, the solvent in the undercoat affects the upper paint film and wrinkles it. In this case, the creped paint film can be removed by chemical mercury removal or heating to repaint. Remember, you must wait until the first time the paint has dried out before you can go to the second time.

The paint does not dry:

If the room is not well ventilated or the temperature is too low, the paint will dry slowly. It is possible to open all doors and windows to promote ventilation, or to place a heater inside to increase the room temperature. If the problem is still not solved, the painted surface may be greasy. This can be done by chemical paint remover or heat removal, thoroughly rubbing the surface and then repainting.

The paint surface is rough:

The newly painted surface is rough, usually because the paint brush used is not clean or contaminated by the surrounding environment. It is also possible that the paint is mixed with patent leather, which has not been precipitated and filtered before use, or that the paint is dusty when it is not dry. To prevent this from happening, a clean paint brush and paint bucket must be used. Always filter with paint filter paper or clean nylon stockings before using the old paint. In addition, the painted surface should be covered with a cover or cardboard when the paint is not dry to prevent dust. If the paint surface is rough, after it has dried out, smooth it with a dry and wet sandpaper, wipe it off, and then paint again. Pay special attention to the paint brush must be clean.

Paint blistering:

First of all, the bubble is broken, if there is water, it means that there is moisture infiltration under the paint layer or behind the sun. After the sun shines, the water evaporates into steam, which will make the patent leather foam. At this point, the hot air spray gun is used to remove the foamed paint, the wood is naturally dried, then the primer is applied, and finally the entire repair surface is repainted. If there is no water in the bubble, it may be cracked in the wood grain, and there is a small amount of air inside. After the sun shines, the air expands and the patent leather bulges. In the face of this situation, first scrape off the foamed patent leather, then fill the crack with the resin filler, repaint, or do not use the filler, after scraping off the patent leather, directly apply the microporous paint.

The paint surface sticks to the bug:

Try to remove the bugs when the paint is not dry, then use a brush to lightly polish the surface. If the paint has begun to dry out, wait until the paint film is completely hard and then wipe off the bug so that it does not make the surface messy.

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Forstner Bits

Forstner bits, flat-bottomed to drill holes in wood materials, they can cut on the edge of a block of wood, and can cut overlapping holes; for such applications they are normally used in drill presses or lathes rather than in hand-held electric drills. Because of the flat bottom of the hole, they are useful for drilling through veneer already glued to add an inlay.

The bit includes a center point which guides it throughout the cut (and incidentally spoils the otherwise flat bottom of the hole). The cylindrical cutter around the perimeter shears the wood fibers at the edge of the bore, and also helps guide the bit into the material more precisely.

Forstner bits have radial cutting edges to plane off the material at the bottom of the hole. The bits shown in the images have two radial edges; other designs may have more. Forstner bits have no mechanism to clear chips from the hole, and therefore must be pulled out periodically.

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